The fashion landscape in China is undergoing a fascinating evolution, particularly when it comes to menswear. As we navigate the post-streetwear era, the question arises: who will dominate the Chinese men's fashion market? Let's delve into this intriguing topic and explore the potential winners and the strategies they employ.
The Changing Landscape of Menswear in China
The traditional view of menswear in China is being challenged. Brands like Shushu/Tong and Jacques Wei are experimenting with menswear, but it's a cautious approach. Founder Liushu 'Shushu' Lei describes it as "boys wearing girls' clothes," highlighting the brand's feminine roots. This cautious expansion is a reflection of the current state of the local menswear scene.
Navigating the Local Market
Local designers face an uphill battle. Male consumers in China often opt for practical sportswear or well-known global brands, leaving domestic labels at a disadvantage. European brands like Our Legacy dominate the market, making it tough for local talent to gain traction. However, there's a silver lining for domestic sportswear brands. Anta and Bosideng are experiencing record revenues, with the latter hiring menswear designer Kim Jones to lead its Areal sub-brand.
The Shift Towards Functionality and Performance
Many Chinese brands are adapting to survive. With a low ROI on menswear, some have shifted their focus to womenswear or emphasized functionality and performance. 8ON8, for instance, has moved towards womenswear in China, where 80% of its sales are to women. The brand's founder, Li Gong, explains that Chinese men tend to prioritize professional sportswear, leaving traditional menswear lines struggling.
Winning Over Male Consumers
To capture the attention of male shoppers in China, brands need to offer more than just clothing. Zemira Xu, founder of Tube Showroom, suggests investing in activations that provide insights into the brand's concept, fabric choices, and silhouette. Male consumers are seeking more than just a 'look'; they want to connect with the brand's ideas and beliefs. This shift towards lifestyle-focused labels is evident in the success of brands like Garçon by Garçon, where jackets and outerwear are the strongest performers.
Opportunities for Global Brands
The Chinese market presents a unique opportunity for foreign players. While success with menswear is not guaranteed, the market's size and dynamism make it an attractive prospect. The French Menswear Federation's strategic move into Shanghai this season is a testament to this. Guillaume Ruby, the federation's communications director, notes that interesting brands can find success in Asia more easily than in Europe. However, he cautions that a thorough understanding of the local market is essential.
The Role of Collaboration and Flexibility
Element, a multi-brand boutique with a loyal male following, has succeeded by stocking a range of international brands and outdoor-lifestyle labels. Founder and buying director Benny Zhu emphasizes the importance of researching male consumption habits across China. He advises foreign brands to be flexible and open-minded when entering the Chinese market, suggesting collaborations or partnerships with big retailers as potential entry points.
Final Thoughts
The Chinese menswear market is a complex and intriguing space. While it presents challenges, it also offers opportunities for both local and global brands. As we've explored, the key to success lies in understanding the local market, offering practical and functional clothing, and connecting with male consumers on a deeper level. The post-streetwear era may have shifted the focus towards leisurewear and gorpcore, but there's still room for innovation and growth in the world of Chinese menswear.
Personally, I find it fascinating how fashion trends and consumer behavior can shape an entire industry. It's a constant evolution, and I believe we're witnessing an exciting chapter in the story of Chinese menswear.
