Get ready to be captivated by the latest sensory experience from Ulla Johnson, as she just dropped a tantalizing hint about her upcoming fragrances at NYFW. But here's where it gets exciting: it's not just about perfumes; it's a full immersion into scent, with candles and incense set to debut this Spring. The sneak peek came in the form of three Robertet lab samples, each with a name that evokes a vivid imagery: 'Baroque Garden,' 'Drift Rose,' and 'Adriatic Gold.'
And this is the part most people miss: the fragrance launch wasn't just a side note; it was seamlessly woven into the very fabric of the show. Johnson revealed to WWD backstage that the entire set design was inspired by the organic shapes and textures of the upcoming fragrance and candle line. 'We collaborated with ceramicists to create hand-built pieces, ensuring a unique, personal touch,' she explained. 'In such a saturated market, it was crucial for us to offer something genuinely distinctive.'
But here's the controversial part: while Johnson is certainly not the first designer to use the runway as a platform for beauty launches—Balmain and Victoria Beckham did it in 2024, and Christian Siriano just debuted skincare this season—her move stands out in the context of New York-based designers. Few emerging talents from the city have ventured into fragrances in recent years, despite designer fragrances accounting for a staggering 70% of the category's sales in the U.S. The exception? LoveShackFancy, which launched a trio of fragrances at Sephora in 2023 and has since expanded its offerings. This begs the question: Why aren’t more New York designers tapping into this lucrative market? Is it a missed opportunity, or is there a strategic reason behind the hesitation? We’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments—do you think more designers should follow Johnson’s lead, or is the fragrance market already too crowded?
As Johnson’s brand gears up for international expansion in 2026, this fragrance launch feels like a strategic step into uncharted territory. Will it set a new trend for New York designers, or remain an outlier? Only time will tell. One thing’s for sure: Ulla Johnson’s foray into fragrance is a bold move that’s sure to spark conversation—and maybe even a few debates.
